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Once a Kingdom

Among the most important ingredients seasoning Sikkim are the cultural traditions of neighbouring Tibet. Thick fog flies in fast from the East, dulling the rich colours of Tsuk La-Khang, the Royal Chapel.

A tipple in Tibet

A boy at Ganden, which is home to a 15th-century monastery. Picture James Elam.

A tipple in Tibet

Drinking yak-butter tea in the Himalayas is a natural high, writes James Elam. Yak's butter mixed with boiling water and salt. It sounds disgusting, but it's strange how tastes can change at 5000 metres above sea level.

Paradise in peril

High on the Tibetan Plateau, the city of Lhasa is threatened with submersion, but not by its neighboring river. With the large influx of Han Chinese over the past several decades, the character of this once exotic and isolated city is changing rapidly.

Sweat and the spirit

It is another cold morning and I wrap my hands around a mug of hot water. I watch trucks approach from all directions as they send out tails of creamy dust. Smoke from a cluster of wool tents swirls around me.

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